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by orologimeccanici
on November 5, 2021
Nei primi anni ’50 il mondo aspettava di vedere l’impermeabilità di un orologio compiere un passo avanti.
Più che in termini di mera resistenza all’acqua chi praticava immersioni, attività che in quel periodo stava crescendo esponenzialmente, necessitava di un vero e proprio strumento al polso.
Quando c’è di mezzo l’acqua sappiamo tutti che Orologi Replica Rolex con la cassa Oyster è negli anni ’20 stata una pioniera, ma il primo orologio subacqueo a potersi chiamare veramente tale è stato il Fifty Fathoms di Blancpain.
Almanacchi messi da parte nel corso degli anni i due top diver hanno preso strade diverse: il Submariner è diventato meritatamente un segnatempo iconico e sulla bocca di tutti, un po’ meno noto è il Fifty Fathoms (appassionati sempre ben informati esclusi) ma grazie al congiungimento con il DNA di Alta Orologeria che scorre in Blancpain lui vola a quote più alte.
Il Submariner, presentato a Baselworld nella primavera del ’54 quando il Blancpain era già in vendita, grazie alla corona avvitata brevettata da Rolex poteva raggiungere agevolmente i 100 metri di profondità.
Osservandolo, dopo quasi sette decadi il suo look è rimasto pressoché invariato.
Da oramai molto tempo sia grazie alle innumerevoli edizioni homage che sono delle copie più o meno fatte bene della sua silhouette, sia per chi cerca di riprenderlo meno spudoratamente, il Submariner è l’immagine del classico orologio diver.
Guardiamo ora com’è cambiato dalla prima referenza all’ultima commercializzata nel 2020
Il 1953 fu una grande annata per Rolex e lo fu al punto che oggi non si ripeterebbe mai più. Il marchio ginevrino rilasciò lo stesso anno ben tre nuovi modelli che hanno scritto gran parte della sua storia: Turn-O-Graph, Explorer e Submariner.
Il Submariner 6204 che misura 38 mm è mosso dal calibro A260, lo stesso che anima il Turn-O-Graph e gli “Ovetto”. Si tratta di un movimento automatico molto robusto con un dispositivo per proteggere il bilanciere dagli urti integrato.
All’inizio il suo quadrante non riporta la profondità per quanto si dice che il primo Submariner – nonostante dichiarasse sulla carta 100 metri – fosse testato per garantire un’impermeabilità sino a 180 metri pari a 600 piedi.
Ma com’è sempre stato nel 1953 il marchio continuava a progredire: il 30 settembre un prototipo di nome Deep Sea Special (ne costruirono in totale 7) attaccato al batiscafo Trieste accompagnò il Professore Auguste Piccard sino a 3.155 metri che tre anni dopo con lo stesso modello forse leggermente rivisto diventarono 11.000. Ma questa è un’altra storia.
La referenza 6204 non possedeva ancora ne la sfera delle ore Mercedes ne le due spallette proteggi corona che sono due tra i segni più riconoscibili della linea.
Quello che mi piace del primo Submariner è la sua essenzialità più da strumento professionale di misura che di un segnatempo. Nessun orpello, niente datario. La lunetta ruotava seppur con una certa resistenza in entrambe le direzioni e senza micro scatti.
Questa, realizzata in alluminio, soffriva di qualsiasi contatto o minimo urto riportando graffi e deformazioni; inoltre bastava esporla un po’ al Sole per vederla scolorire subito.
Da anni mi piace dire che il segreto di Rolex sta nell’aver adottato la tecnica giapponese “kaizen” o dei piccoli ma continui miglioramenti.
Quando 12 anni fa iniziai a bloggare per passione mi ricordo che molti appassionati nei forum si lamentavano che la Maison non cambiava mai nulla a parte un bracciale o il colore di un quadrante.
Oggi è uguale ma nessuno ci fa più caso, anzi, per la maggior parte dei fans sarebbe un guaio vedere una novità Rolex che si allontana dalla “retta via”. E quando succede, tutte le pochissime volte che la Maison cambia le sue leggi granitiche come mettere il vetro con lente ciclopica nell’ultimo Sea-Dweller scritta rossa, i suoi più stretti follower insorgono.
Al momento sei hai notato sul sito Rolex il Submariner è disponibile sia nella versione senza e con data: come esempio ho voluto prendere la referenza 116610LV ossia con quadrante e lunetta verde.
Tutto questo a mio avviso non rispecchia la realtà in quanto credo che oggi 4 maggio 2020, che sarebbe dovuto essere il penultimo giorno di Baselworld, rimandata come ben sappiamo per la pandemia, io dico che qualcosa in quelle pagine web sarebbe cambiato.
Ma questo è quello che abbiamo al momento.
Le referenza 116610LV e 116610LN misurano 40 mm e la cassa ridisegnata nel 2010 offre anse diritte, più spigolose e più spesse che lo fanno sembrare più grande delle precedenti edizioni nonostante fossero tutte anche loro delle stesse dimensioni.
Nei Submariner odierni batte una vecchia conoscenza: il calibro 3135 dotato di molla della spirale blu Parachrom e sistema antiurto proprietario. La prima, più sottile di un capello, è realizzata in una speciale lega antimagnetica, ma nonostante Rolex abbia sviluppato anche lei da anni la sua tecnologia al silicio denominata Siloxi, per ora rimane quella standard e non sembrerebbe che almeno nel breve la situazione cambierà.
La referenza 114060 senza datario è unicamente prodotta con quadrante nero e inserto della lunetta nero, la livrea classica di questo diver.
Il Submariner con quadrante e inserto della lunetta in Cerachrom verde, che i collezionisti hanno soprannominato “Hulk” esprime il carattere dell’ultima generazione.
In 57 anni (1953 -2010) oltre ai movimenti più aggiornati la vera evoluzione sta nel materiale.
Non che Rolex abbia mai usato materiali scadenti, il contrario, ma l’acciaio 904L di oggi che il brand chiama Oystersteel è 20.000 passi più avanti di quello del 6204 e anche di molti altri orologi odierni di pari segmento di prezzo.
La lunetta in Cerachrom è quasi antigraffio: se ci passi sopra un cutter questo sembra quasi galleggiarvi sopra. Questa è l’orologeria di Rolex, alta non per le complicazioni, l’artigianalità o le rifiniture dei movimenti ma per la qualità.
Tre mesi fa come tutti gli anni mi sono divertito a giocare a prevedere il futuro: poi tutto è saltato per cause di forza maggiori.
Eppure il 2020 doveva essere l’anno del nuovo Submariner. Tutti, dopo aver preso al solito degli abbagli per diversi anni, davano per certo l’arrivo di un nuovo beniamino delle profondità del mare.
Di sicuro al prossimo giro dovrebbe esserci l’aggiornamento del movimento con il molto più al passo dei tempi movimento calibro 3235,Omega seamaster che poi nuovo non si può considerare visto che lo si è visto la prima volta ben 5 anni fa.
La speranza sarebbe anche di vedere delle anse più rastremate tipo quelle del GMT-Master II Batman ma qui la cosa si fa più difficile e davvero con Orologio rolex usare il condizionale è sempre d’obbligo. Quest’anno si sta andando nella direzione di non vedere alcuna nuova entrata.