Rewind Vintage Affairs

Chanel’s 2.55 bag and Hermès’s Kelly and Birkin models are three of the world’s most coveted designer handbags owing to their expert craftsmanship and exclusivity. Investing in one of these luxury accessories via a vintage seller is not only a way of securing a piece of fashion history to pass down to future generations, but also of championing a sustainable approach to shopping – one that will ultimately help fashion advance towards a greener future. “Fashion shouldn’t feel disposable,” British Vogue editor-in-chief Edward Enninful said of his decision to dress Taylor Swift in archive Chanel for the January 2020 cover. “The best clothes can be worn time and time again and have the quality of both design and craftsmanship to ensure their staying power.” Indeed, as Coco Chanel once said, “Fashion passes, style remains.” Here, British Vogue speaks to seven vintage experts from consignment websites, bricks-and-mortar treasure troves for the retro obsessed, and luxury e-tailers to find out how to source an authentic designer bag to buy now and wear forever. Trust your source “The first, and arguably the most important, thing to consider when purchasing a designer vintage piece is to evaluate the source,” says Seth Weisser, co-founder and CEO of What Goes Around Comes Around, which has been one of New York’s premiere purveyors of vintage for almost three decades. “Do your research on the seller or company you’re buying from and be wary of marketplaces where you don’t have access to information on the seller. The peace of mind you have when you shop with a trusted source makes the process so much more enjoyable and eliminates the stress of having to attempt to authenticate a piece on your own.” Research the brand “Each brand has unique codes which permit a buyer to verify the authenticity,” says Sophie Hersan, co-founder and fashion director of fashion consignment platform Vestiaire Collective. “For example, Hermès uses famous stitches called ‘piqûres sellier’, which are hand sewn by craftsmen. The irregularities or imperfections are recognisable compared to machine work.” “Most high-end designer brands, like Louis Vuitton and Gucci, will include a date code or serial number somewhere within the bag,” explains Oliver Purnell, the owner of Depop shop @oliversarchive. “Usually they’re quite hard to find within the inner lining. A lot of counterfeit vintage Fendi SAS model bags are currently in circulation, none of which have serial numbers.” Google is your friend for these certification steps. “Compare care labels to online images of real versions to identify any inconsistencies and red flags,” advises Sharon Wolter-Ferguson, founder and CEO of Hardly Ever Worn It (HEWI). Consider the scarcity “We consider scarcity and impact factor at the time of production,” says Jesper Richardy, founder of Copenhagen emporium Time’s Up Vintage, whose customers include Naomi Campbell, Lady Gaga and Jane Birkin. “Right now, there is a lot of interest in the major commercial successes of the ’90s and ’00s, but I believe that scarcity will be more important when investing in a luxury bag in the future. That means not only limited-edition bags from the big design houses, but also bags from smaller, independent designers which are harder to find, but have an important story to tell.” Rewind Vintage Affairs founder and CEO, Claudia Ricco, confirms that “limited-edition items perform exceptionally well on the resale market”. The rarest gems for her website are runway pieces, because they are created in small batches. “They are double or triple the price because you literally can’t find them anywhere,” she says. “We are always on the hunt for these one-of-a-kind items or pieces that will stand the test of time.” Consider the scarcity “We consider scarcity and impact factor at the time of production,” says Jesper Richardy, founder of Copenhagen emporium Time’s Up Vintage, whose customers include Naomi Campbell, Lady Gaga and Jane Birkin. “Right now, there is a lot of interest in the major commercial successes of the ’90s and ’00s, but I believe that scarcity will be more important when investing in a luxury bag in the future. That means not only limited-edition bags from the big design houses, but also bags from smaller, independent designers which are harder to find, but have an important story to tell.” Rewind Vintage Affairs founder and CEO, Claudia Ricco, confirms that “limited-edition items perform exceptionally well on the resale market”. The rarest gems for her website are runway pieces, because they are created in small batches. “They are double or triple the price because you literally can’t find them anywhere,” she says. “We are always on the hunt for these one-of-a-kind items or pieces that will stand the test of time.” Study the hardware “Vestiaire Collective’s authentication teams will thoroughly check typography (the logo) as it’s often a slip-up area for copies,” says Hersan. “Every brand includes unique details to ensure they can identify a genuine item.” Examine the stamps on every piece of hardware, including zips, clasps, locks, keys and metal accents. “The font and placement of the branding is important, as is the quality of the hardware itself,” adds Weisser. “Counterfeiters have focused on replicating the hot stamps and stitching, but they often can’t get the hardware right,” continues Purnell. “The brand engravings on small metal parts of the bag are usually so tiny that intricate replicators just can’t get it right.” Feel the leather “The things we look for when determining authenticity depend on the period and designer, but, in general, we like to have the bags in our hands to feel the quality of the leather,” says Richardy. Purnell agrees: “The type and quality of material used is an easy way to tell the authenticity of a bag when you’re familiar with the brand. For example, the classic Louis Vuitton canvas is quite thick and PVC coated with a slight grainy texture. Counterfeits are getting so good you can’t really confirm authenticity just from the canvas – you’d have to look at the stitching and hot stamps, too.” Take care Just because you’re buying vintage doesn’t mean your investment piece shouldn’t look nearly new. “Condition is one of my main deciding factors,” shares Purnell. “If you’re purchasing one of the current popular ’90s bags, then it might already have gone through 30 years of heavy use. If the bases of straps are cracking, it means they can easily break.” Don’t hesitate to scrutinise an item for tiny flaws or ask the vendor for extra pictures if shopping online. Pre-loved sections on designer e-tail sites, such as Farfetch, guarantee items are in mint condition before they ship because, Maxim de Turckheim, Farfetch’s senior category development manager (watches and pre-owned), says, “That is what customers expect when shopping on [the platform]”. “We have even had customers ask us if a 30-year-old bag is new, as there is not a single scratch on it!” Evaluate the price “Around six months after a bag’s release, the item tends to hit the apex of its hype,” Ricco explains of her team’s valuation process. “At this point, it has been exposed to a large number of consumers. Some early buyers may start to sell their purchases on resale sites – for more than they paid if the bag is in demand, but often for much less when they realise the bag is not selling. When we see saturation of products – for example, when Phoebe Philo released Céline’s popular Trapeze bags – prices do decrease drastically.” A bag’s value begins its decline between six months to a year after its release,” Ricco continues. “Large quantities hit the resale market during this time, and prices fall anywhere from 40 to 60 per cent below retail value. For all but a few elite bags, a nosedive is inevitable. Typically, a year after release, demand plummets and huge numbers of bags hit the resale market, fetching prices as low as 20 per cent of retail. A handbag’s ability to remain in demand is testament to its status as an investment bag.” Hermès’s Birkin and Kelly bags still sell for up to 150 per cent of their original price tags. Ricco’s team consults past sales, price archives, discount retail sites, auction results and resale competitors before pricing a bag. “I prefer to sell things for a reasonably amount, rather than inflating them and sitting on stock,” she explains of her fair approach to valuation. A vintage expert will explain how they landed on the figure – so ask! Picture it Once you have checked the hardware, the lining, labels, stitching, zips, buttons, and holograms or codes to confirm the provenance of the bag and that nothing has been changed, it’s time to reassess why you are buying it. “With the growing awareness around sustainability, I really consider the value of an item to ensure I’m investing in a quality piece that will last,” says Hersan. “I will ask myself, ‘do I really need this? Will it serve a purpose, or will I get a lot of joy from this piece?’ If you’re conscious of shopping less, and you take care of everything you buy, your items will have a longer lifetime, thus reducing the environmental impact.” Well said.  Scoring an immaculate Chanel 2.55 or Hermès Kelly requires, as Ricco says, “a combination of experience, alchemy and mystery,” but keep in mind the above and don’t be afraid to ask for advice. Vintage sellers thrive off the thrill of the chase and hearing the stories behind accessories, so don’t be afraid to get in touch and start a dialogue. Reference URL: https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/how-to-buy-a-vintage-designer-bag